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The Irish Pub Cookbook by Margaret M Johnson

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Books : Cooking : English
 

`The
Irish Pub Cookbook' is the fourth Irish themed cookbook I have reviewed from Irish-American Margaret M. Johnson of New
York. All four, including `The New Irish Table', `Irish Puddings, Tarts, Crumbles, and Fools', and `The Irish Heritage
Cookbook' are of similar trade paperback format from Chronicle Books. They are also similar in that all seem to be
collections of recipes from various culinary professionals in Ireland. They all also seem to repeat a lot of sidebar
material, although I have yet to see any repeated recipes.

To state a perfectly obvious fact, you probably
only want to buy this book if you happen to want to cook recipes prepared at Irish pubs. That is, if you already own a
fairly sizable collection of cookbooks, many of the recipes in this book will simply be variations on recipes you
already have in either a standard book on Irish cooking or in books on Brasserie or Trattoria cooking. This premise,
however, is no little recommendation. My personal experience of pub food in England, to which most of these recipes bear
a strong resemblance, is that English speaking pubs offer a quality of food at least as good as their much more widely
advertised French Brasserie and Italian Trattoria cousins. Like the famous Italian and French `bar food' recipes, these
also have the virtue of being very fast to prepare. Either they cook very quickly or they can be cooked up ahead and
reheated very quickly. The best model for Americans of pub / brasserie / trattoria food would be the kind of thing you
will find at Chili's, Bennigan's, or Appleby's, except that my experience with the three European versions is that they
tend to deal in less greasy and less cliched dishes.

The seven recipe chapters are:

Starters with
10 recipes with several based on seafood such as mussels, oysters, and salmon.

Soups with 9 recipes
emphasizing cream based soups, plus four recipes for homemade stocks.

Salads with 9 recipes with lots of
recipes using chicken, seafood, and cheese.

Hot Pots, Meat Pies, and Savory Tarts (hot pots are rich, thick
stews) with 12 recipes featuring pies, savory tarts, `Irish Stew', and brown soda bread.

Meat and Potatoes
with 12 recipes for, you guessed it, meat and potatoes, including pork (bacon and ham), lamb, fowl, and steaks.

Seafood with 8 recipes featuring salmon, cod, haddock, and monkfish.

Desserts with 11 recipes for
cheesecakes, apple and pear cakes, puddings, mousses and pies.

If your primary interest is Irish desserts, go
for the author's, `Irish Puddings, Tarts, Crumbles, and Fools', although this book includes cheesecakes, which are not
in the dessert book.

Johnson certainly writes well about her recipes, although this may not be the best book
for a green amateur, as there are few tips on techniques, although a fair knowledge of common kitchen techniques should
be more than enough. I do tend to be just a little annoyed at Ms. Johnson's always citing Irish staples in her
ingredients list such as `Kerrygold Irish Butter'. I feel that for a `comfort food book, it would have been better not
to be expected to chase down a very specific, uncommon ingredient. The book also makes an important point that to the
Irish, the pig is commonly divided into `ham' and `bacon'. This can easily be the source of the `Canadian bacon' label
for smoked pork loin, as the Irish call everything not part of the rear leg ham to be `bacon'. While explaining this
little bit of wisdom, the author seems to be not as clear as she could be in identifying exactly what kind of pork she
means when she calls for `bacon'.

A collection of Ms. Johnson's books will give you an excellent overview of
contemporary Irish cooking and contemporary Irish hospitality, with a few insights into Irish culinary history. So, if
all you want is the recipes, these books are quite good. If you want to go deeper into traditional cooking, start with
`Irish Traditional Cooking' by leading Irish cooking school owner, Darina Allen and her husband's `The Ballymaloe Bread
Book' by Tim Allen (not the comedian).

- B. Marold, Amazon.com

My husband and I traveled to
Ireland in 2002 and fell in love with the country. We ate at local pubs for almost every meal and decided that we needed
to learn to replicate many of these meals. He bought me this book for Christmas several years ago and I have used many
of the recipes over and over again.

We have a St. Patrick's party every year and have used this cookbook
almost exclusively. We consistantly make the Blue-Cheese Stuffed Mushrooms, but have made a few changes with it. The
Seafood Chowder is a crowd pleaser. I also love the Bacon, Blue-Cheese and Courgette (Zucchini) soup. The star of our
cookbook, though, is the Black and White Guinness Mousse. I make this dessert 4 or 5 times a year. It is my most
requested dessert and it is a wonderful presentation. My cookbook literally opens up to that page on its own.

Coming from a woman who has hundreds of cookbooks, this is one of my favorite. I am lucky enough to have Kerrigold
butter sold in our local supermarket and I can also source true bangers, which makes a nice treat for our family. I
would highly recommend this if you are looking for truly authentic Irish recipes. Slainte! 

- Theresa M.
Daggett, Amazon.com
             
                                               

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